Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility.

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Probing Skin Barrier Recovery on Molecular Level Following Acute Wounds: An In Vivo/Ex Vivo Study on Pigs.

Proper skin barrier function is paramount for our survival, and, suffering injury, there is an acute need to restore the lost barrier and prevent development of a chronic wound. We hypothesize that rapid wound closure is more important than immediate perfection of the barrier, whereas specific treatment may facilitate perfection. The aim of the current project was therefore to evaluate the quality of restored tissue down to the molecular level. We used Göttingen minipigs with a multi-technique approach correlating wound healing progression in vivo over three weeks, monitored by classical methods (e.g., histology, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH) and subsequent physicochemical characterization of barrier recovery (i.e., small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SWAXD), polarization transfer solid-state NMR (PTssNMR), dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR)), providing a unique insight into molecular aspects of healing. We conclude that although acute wounds sealed within two weeks as expected, molecular investigation of stratum corneum (SC) revealed a poorly developed keratin organization and deviations in lipid lamellae formation. A higher lipid fluidity was also observed in regenerated tissue. This may have been due to incomplete lipid conversion during barrier recovery as glycosphingolipids, normally not present in SC, were indicated by infrared FTIR spectroscopy. Evidently, a molecular approach to skin barrier recovery could be a valuable tool in future development of products targeting wound healing.

The effect of pH and salt on the molecular structure and dynamics of the skin.

The 'acid mantle' of the human skin is considered crucial for several protective functions of the skin. It has been associated with numerous biological processes including enzymatic activities and barrier function for diffusional transport. The outer thin layer of the skin- the stratum corneum (SC) - is primarily responsible for the skin barrier function. In this paper, we investigate how the structure and dynamics of SC lipid and protein components are influenced by variations in pH, ionic strength and salt composition. We characterize molecular mobility and organization in pieces of SC exposed to buffer solutions with pH ranging from acidic to neutral to basic conditions. Using solid state NMR we obtain details on molecular dynamics in intact SC at close to atomistic resolution, providing detailed information on the molecular responses. The highest mobility in both lipid and protein components is observed at the lowest pH 4.0. We also study the effects of adding salt, either with monovalent Na+ or divalent Mg2+ ions at the different pH conditions. Our results provide new understanding how SC molecular properties respond to solution conditions that can be utilized in the development of topical drug delivery and cosmetic formulations.

Self-Assembly in Ganglioside‒Phospholipid Systems: The Co-Existence of Vesicles, Micelles, and Discs.

Ganglioside lipids have been associated with several physiological processes, including cell signaling. They have also been associated with amyloid aggregation in Parkinson's and Alzheimer's disease. In biological systems, gangliosides are present in a mix with other lipid species, and the structure and properties of these mixtures strongly depend on the proportions of the different components. Here, we study self-assembly in model mixtures composed of ganglioside GM1 and a zwitterionic phospholipid, 1,2-Dioleoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine (DOPC). We characterize the structure and molecular dynamics using a range of complementary techniques, including cryo-TEM, polarization transfer solid state NMR, diffusion NMR, small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS), dynamic light scattering (DLS), and calorimetry. The main findings are: (1) The lipid acyl chains are more rigid in mixtures containing both lipid species compared to systems that only contain one of the lipids. (2) The system containing DOPC with 10 mol % GM1 contains both vesicles and micelles. (3) At higher GM1 concentrations, the sample is more heterogenous and also contains small disc-like or rod-like structures. Such a co-existence of structures can have a strong impact on the overall properties of the lipid system, including transport, solubilization, and partitioning, which can be crucial to the understanding of the role of gangliosides in biological systems.

Skin hydration: interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum.

Hydration is a key aspect of the skin that influences its physical and mechanical properties. Here, we investigate the interplay between molecular and macroscopic properties of the outer skin layer - the stratum corneum (SC) and how this varies with hydration. It is shown that hydration leads to changes in the molecular arrangement of the peptides in the keratin filaments as well as dynamics of C-H bond reorientation of amino acids in the protruding terminals of keratin protein within the SC. The changes in molecular structure and dynamics occur at a threshold hydration corresponding to ca. 85% relative humidity (RH). The abrupt changes in SC molecular properties coincide with changes in SC macroscopic swelling properties as well as mechanical properties in the SC. The flexible terminals at the solid keratin filaments can be compared to flexible polymer brushes in colloidal systems, creating long-range repulsion and extensive swelling in water. We further show that the addition of urea to the SC at reduced RH leads to similar molecular and macroscopic responses as the increase in RH for SC without urea. The findings provide new molecular insights to deepen the understanding of how intermediate filament organization responds to changes in the surrounding environment.